[Food] Sungei Road: Original Laksa

 

After visiting the holy grail - the historical Sungei Road Thieves Market, and reading about the famous pushcart laksa in that area, I was all ready to have a go at this local delicacy.

Founded in 1956 by brothers Wong Yew Poh and Yew Hwa, (1) this roadside stall sited in front of the ice factory along Sungei Road, a bowl of laksa then cost only 30 cents. (2)

My dad was a frequent visitor to Sungei Road in the 70s and whenever he was there, he would order a bowl of laksa. By then, the stall had moved into a coffee shop along Sungei Road.

So the pushcart stall is no more. Instead, they have moved a few times - from Kelantan Lane to now, Blk 27, Jalan Berseh. 

Arriving at the coffee shop, there were about five stalls that were opened, but only one with a queue. The laksa is so good that even famous celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain had sang praises of it. (3)

I was number 8 in the queue and that gave me time to have a good look-around. There were three things that made the laksa unique:-

1. Charcoal Fire

Using charcoal fire to keep the laksa gravy warm showed that the owner had wanted to keep true to the old flavor. Really, how many smallholders still utilize charcoal for their cooking?

2. Endless stirring

She stirred the gravy, and stirred, and stirred and I can go on saying that. She never stopped stirring. This to ensure that the flavour was evenly distributed.

3. $2 a bowl - cheapest around

Devastated. When we finished slurping down the laksa. Yes, slurping because the owners made sure that the noodles are cut to a slurpable (Is there such a word?) length! What's more, it's only $2. The price has stayed constant for more than a decade now. Where can you find such delicious laksa at such a going price? Also, one eats with just a spoon. Here, I'm just trying to squeeze a whole lot of goodness into this column, because the chilli also helped to separate the real McCoy from the rest of the wannabes.

 

Not long after, the main star of the stall, Mr Wong Yew Poh, appeared. Hands still strong. Stirring to check the quality of the gravy. Just like old times.

1. The New Paper. (December 18, 2005). One good laksa.

2. Teo, G. (March 29, 2002). Go on a food trail, and taste history. The Straits Times.

3. Lee, S. Y. (March 11, 2007). Bourdain kissed by bliss. The Straits Times.